Classic paintwork tells its age through fine swirls, faded gloss, and a patina that often feels more honest than any respray. The goal of polishing isn’t to erase that story — it’s to make the surface read clearly again without thinning it away. A mild polish, applied with restraint, bridges respect and renewal.
Every car that arrives at our Birmingham workshop is assessed first in daylight. Artificial light exaggerates scratches; sunlight shows depth. We begin by determining the paint type — single-stage, lacquered, or a mix from an older restoration. Different layers respond differently to heat and pressure, so product choice follows that observation.
Modern abrasive polishes use diminishing compounds: particles that break down as you work them. For older paint, this is safer because the cut softens naturally. Look for descriptions such as “finishing polish” or “one-step restoration” rather than “heavy correction.” The bottle should mention hand or dual-action use, not rotary-only. If you see words like “rapid cut” or “high removal rate,” leave it for newer cars.
Before testing on any panel, clean thoroughly and clay the surface if contamination exists. A smooth surface prevents grit from scratching during polishing. Then mask chrome edges, badges, and rubber trims — they can stain easily from polish residues.
Apply a small drop onto a foam pad or soft microfibre applicator. Work in slow, overlapping motions about the size of a laptop screen. Pressure should remain light, allowing the pad to glide rather than push. If polishing by hand, you’ll feel resistance lessen as the compound begins to break down; that’s the cue to stop and buff gently with a clean towel.
Inspect the area after each pass. If the improvement looks natural — slightly deeper tone, smoother reflections — you’ve gone far enough. Don’t chase mirror gloss at the expense of thickness. On some older British finishes, the charm lies in that subtle “velvet” glow.
For deeper marks, it’s often wiser to live with them. A single imperfection under the right light confirms the surface is genuine. Remember, polishing is subtraction; once removed, original pigment doesn’t grow back. A series of light sessions over time preserves far more than one ambitious afternoon.
After polishing, always seal the surface. Wax or polymer sealant locks the result and reduces future abrasion. Avoid silicone-heavy dressings that darken unevenly or attract dust. If in doubt, consult products labelled “heritage safe” or “classic-approved.”
Our technicians at Colmore Classic Auto Care record each product used and its effect on different models. What works on a 1970s MG may not suit a 1960s Jaguar. Through documentation, the next owner benefits too, knowing what was done and why.
Polishing an older car isn’t an act of vanity; it’s a small dialogue between decades. With the right product and patience, the surface can breathe again — clear, warm, and still proudly itself.
Colmore Classic Auto Care
28 Livery Street, Jewellery Quarter, Birmingham B3 2BP, England
Tel 441 121 784 613 Email [email protected]